If you’ve been following my blog for a while, you probably know my Word of the Year is growth. Part of the word growth was to grow a garden this year. We didn’t have anywhere to start a garden at our house. So, I had to learn how to build an elevated planter box.
Our yard is pretty small. I didn’t want to make it choppy by adding in a garden patch. I also didn’t want to create an achy back by having to lean over to take care of the garden.
After a bit of searching around, I decided that an elevated planter box was the way to go. The height is easy to work with for planting and pruning purposes. It also should keep most little critters out of our garden.
Below is the material, tool, and cut list for building an elevated planter box. This design is to build a planter box that is 3 feet high, 6 feet wide, and 2 feet deep.
Material List
- 1 Green Treated 4x4x12
- 4 Green Treated 1x6x8
- 1 Green Treated 2x4x8
- ¼ in Galvanized Mesh Hardware Cloth
- Landscape Fabric
- Box of 2-inch Deck Screws
Tool List
- Drill or Impact Driver
- #8 Counter Sink Bit (or small drill bit to pre-drill holes for screws)
- Screw Driver Bit to Match Screws
- Staple Gun & Staples
- Circular Saw or Miter Saw
- Speed Square
- Tin Snips
- Tape Measure
- Pencil
Cut List
- 4x4x12: Cut into 3-foot sections
- 1x6x8: Cut each board into a 4-foot piece and a 2-foot piece
- 2x4x8: Cut into 4 2-foot pieces
How to Build an Elevated Planter Box
Size of planter box: 3 feet high, 6 feet wide, 2 feet deep
1. Mark and Cut Pieces of Wood
The first step in how to build an elevated planter box is to measure and mark each piece of wood using the cut list provided above.
After each piece is measured and marked, you will need to cut the wood using either a circular saw or a miter saw.
We ended up using both types of saws on our project, depending on what my husband felt like using at the time.
2. Build the 6-foot sides of the planter box
Lay out on a flat surface two of the 4x4x3 pieces of wood along with one 1x6x6 piece. Use the speed square to ensure that the 1x6x6 is at a 90-degree angle to the 4x4x3.
Use the drill or impact driver with the #8 countersink bit to pre-drill the holes for the first two screws.
Then, using the drill or impact driver, screw in two of the 2-inch deck screws. Make sure the first two screws into the board are diagonal from one another so the board can’t shift in any way. Verify that the board is still at a 90-degree angle using the speed square.
Here is what the screw pattern should look like for the corners.
After the first board is attached at one end, go to the opposite side. On the opposite side, use the speed square to ensure the 1x6x6 is at a 90-degree angle to the 4x4x3. Once you have it at a 90-degree angle, use the drill and the #8 countersink bit to pre-drill the holes for the first two screws. Then screw in the first screw.
Using the speed square, verify that the 1x6x6 is still at a 90-degree angle to the 4x4x3. If it is, screw in the second screw, diagonally to the first.
I skipped the second step there with the speed square and ended up having to pull the screws back out and re-square it. Save yourself that pain and just double-check as you go along.
Once you have the first two screws in each end and have verified the 90-degree angle, use the drill with the #8 countersink bit to pre-drill the remaining holes for the screws. Then add in the final two screws to each end.
Grab a second 1x6x6 and put it below the first 1x6x6 that was screwed onto the 4x4x3s. With the second 1x6x6 below the first, pre-drill the holes for the screws. Then, screw in the 4 screws to each end.
You now have one finished 6-foot side.
Once you have completed the first 6-foot side, repeat the instructions to complete the second 6-foot side.
3. Complete the 2-foot sides of the planter box
Stand up the two 6-foot planter box sections parallel to one another, about 2 feet apart. Line up the 1x6x2 at the edge of the 4x4x3.
You may need someone here to hold the board steady. Use the speed square to make sure the board is at a 90-degree angle to the 4×4.
Pre-drill the holes for the first two screws. Use the drill to screw in the first two deck screws of this side.
Then line the other side of the 1x6x2 up to the other 4x4x3. Use the speed square to make sure that it is at a 90-degree angle to the 4×4.
Pre-drill the first two holes and then use the drill to screw in the two deck screws.
Finish up this end by pre-drilling in the remaining two holes on each side and drill in the deck screws.
Take a second 1x6x2 and snug it up next to the first one that you just drilled on. Pre-drill 4 holes on the first side and then drill in the 4 screws on that side.
Go over to the other end of the 1x6x2 and pre-drill the 4 holes into the other side where it will be attached into the 4x4x3. Finish this end by drilling the 4 deck screws into this side.
Repeat this same process on the other 2-foot side.
4. Attach the 2x4x2 to the bottom of the planter box
Flip the planter over, so the top of the planter is on the ground. Take one of the 2x4x2 and insert it in between the 6-foot sides.
Push it up to one side so it is right next to the legs of the planter. Make sure it is flush with the edge of the wood.
Pre-drill one hole on the end of the 1x6x6 and into the edge of the 2x4x2. Drill in a screw into this hole.
Move to the other side. Make sure that the other side of the 2x4x2 is flush with the edge of the 1x6x6. Pre-drill a hole that is diagonally opposite where the first screw was. Drill in a screw into this hole.
Then, pre-drill another hole into the edge of the 1x6x6 into the 2x4x2 on each side and drill in one more deck screw into each side. There will be two deck screws in each side of the 2x4x2 holding it onto the bottom of the planter.
Repeat this process on the other side.
For the remaining two 2x4x2, evenly space them in the bottom of the planter and repeat the same process to attach them as was used above.
5. Insert the galvanized mesh hardware cloth
Flip the planter back over, so the 4×4’s are once again on the ground. Take your roll of galvanized mesh hardware cloth and insert it into the bottom of the planter.
If there is excess mesh, you may need to cut it using the tin snips. You will also need to cut the mesh so it can fit snuggly in around the 4x4s in the corners.
Once the mesh is in place, with some extra up along the 2-foot edges, staple it into the boards using the staple gun.
6. Insert the landscape fabric into the bottom of the planter.
Roll the landscape fabric into the bottom of the planter. Leave some excess up along each edge. Cut the remainder using scissors or razor.
Using the staple gun, attach the landscape fabric to the sides and bottom of the planter.
Congratulations! You’ve Just Finished Making Your First Planter Box
Now that you know how to build an elevated planter box, you too can grow your garden. We’re excited to use ours. It isn’t quite planting time in Wisconsin, so our starter seeds are still growing inside.
Hopefully, you find these instructions easy to use so you too can grow your garden. I hope your garden brings a little extra joy to your life.
